She purchased a
travel package to Edinburgh, Scotland, even though she had no reason do
anything pleasurable. Not even maintaining friendships, health, or beauty (she
once obsessed about, buying beauty gadgets, taking supplements, and doing
at-home beauty treatments to stave of middle age aging) mattered; she’ rather
be home sulking over the seven-year loss of her relationship with her only daughter
Emily, except that several days before her flight she had an epiphany so
profound it rattled her undeniable reasons why her daughter refused to see or
talk to her, including Emily’s cruel streak, and her conniving and vindictive ex-husband’s
influence over their only child. After Googling,
for the thousandth time, Why Adult Children Become Estranged from Their Parents,
she found an answer so relevant it rocked her heart and soul and left her shaken
and devastated in new ways: “Most adult children become estranged from their
parents because of emotional abuse in their childhood.”
Judy wanted to
cancel her trip, process her newfound information, write her daughter a letter,
and contact her via Facebook, email, or telephone, even though she had long
been blocked from those forms of communications, a realization that made her tear
up. At the moment, though, she was overwhelmed
by the distraction of having to prepare to travel to a country she never thought
of visiting, except she knew better than to refuse her instincts: After several months of signs to include an
onslaught of digital ads for Scottish tourism, bagpipe music played at the local
Saturday Farmer’s Market, and stories shared by strangers about their recent adventures
in Scotland, she got the message and begrudgingly withdrew money from her small
savings account to purchase from a budget internet traveling site a low fare airline
ticket for a 5 days/4 nights stay at a Bed and Breakfast in Edinburgh’s city
limits.
It was her
grandmother with roots in the Hopi Native American Tribe, who had lived with
her family until her death when Judy was 10 years old, who taught her to read the
energy of her daily life until her actions flowed with the knowing of what to say,
do, eat, a knowing she had been out of touch with since her grandmother’s passing;
its sudden return seemed heralded by a bugle blown loudly by her grandmother in
the afterlife. Judy was going to Scotland
no matter what
Packing for
international travel was a nightmare. She wasn’t emotionally, psychology, or
physically up to the task and took pleasure in raising her middle finger to
life in defiant resistance of what she had to do. She even lied to her manager
at the bank where she worked as a teller, asking for time off to deal with a
pressing, private family matter.
Tucked away in the
darkest corners of her closet, she found expensive and classic dresses, pants,
sweaters, and tops made of natural fibers like silk, leather, cashmere, linen,
cotton, pieces she wore when married to a CEO and lived in New York City. Her
move to Portland, Maine, seven years ago no longer required such clothes. The psychic feel of Maine was dark and nurturing
and allowed her to live peacefully with her sadness while dressed in comfortable,
practical, and preppy buttoned-up cotton shirts, khaki pants, and sneakers or
hiking boots like most people wore in town.
Mainers could be creative,
brilliant, rebellious, hardworking, independent but also cantankerous, judgmental,
overly intellectual, and committed to griping personal fears, losses, and imperfections
that occasionally conjured Stephen King-like mental terrors, an experience she was
familiar with, even though the image of seagulls daily soaring outside her
window, no matter how brutal the weather, reminded her to heal, forgive, rise
above, and be brave and graceful while doing it.
She pulled on A-line
dresses, tried wool hats, held jeans over her bony figure and put what fit into
her carry-on luggage. Sadness and loss
changed her physique and features. Her once voluptuous figure was sickly and
thin, blue eyes buried in hollows of dark circles, red hair grey and frizzy, and
lips colorless. She looked like a wraith, hollow, empty from lacking the animation
of a healthy body. Appointments to the hair and nail salon were in order;
regardless of her state of mind, she would never travel internationally looking
like she felt. Past travels taught her that respect for others and their culture
required she look her best, and that was the gift she gave a faraway world
where she was as much a stranger to time, place, and others, as they were to
her.
On the day of her
trip, she was pulled into new sensations and challenges, including currency
exchange, standbys, layovers, and delays due to fog and increment Fall weather.
Conversations with other travelers were enjoyable except when they shared stories
of traveling to visit adult children or grandchildren; then she felt the pain
of losing Emily and her newly realized part in it grab her chest, stop her heartbeat,
and leave her body struggling to regain its normal pulse. She excused herself,
walked to the bathroom, locked herself in a stall, took a couple swigs of Maine-made
honey mead from the liquor flask she bought from a vintage store in town for the
purpose of her trip, and took reassuring deep breaths while the liquor warmed
and soothed her. Embarrassed when asked
to empty the contents of the flask at security checkpoint, she was determined,
if necessary, to take a shot of whiskey, scotch, or any hard liquor on hand at the
airport, on the plane, or at her destination.
From the moment
the jet’s wheels bounced of the runaway on approach to landing in Edinburgh, she
smelled rich dark soil and sweet moss. Scotland
was mystery beyond the pale of its commercialization, movies, whiskey, and
fashion, with overcast skies and atmospheric moodiness. From above, she saw mounds of vibrant grassy earth
jutting onto small roads as if intending to slow travel for ancient Scots still
on the move, if only in spirit. On the runway, descendants of those long-ago
men wrestled luggage onto conveyer belts, their body language filled with the gravitas
of legacy, brute strength, and easy-going manliness. It was no wonder Scottish
men were the country’s pride and joy. She had forgotten how travel pulled her
into automatic scrying, a form of divination that for her streamed from sense
perceptions, a talent also inherited from her grandmother.
On the way to the bed
and breakfast, the taxi driver spoke of the loss of tourism during Covid; the
struggle of downtown Edinburgh to lure office employees and building rentals back
to the city limits post Covid; the return of the Tattoo Festival last summer, bringing
millions of tourists worldwide to tiny Scotland, population 5 million; subtle,
ongoing tensions between the English and Scots; and complex feelings about the
royals. He recommended a whiskey tour and getting lost and exploring the side
streets of beautiful Edinburgh. He wished Judy well when he dropped her off at
her bed and breakfast, an elegant stone structure as old as the United States.
The married proprietors
of the place were welcoming with their twinkling eyes, warm smiles, and energetic
and caring fussiness, letting her know about the free daily breakfast, small parlor
lobby’s hour of operations, and things to do Edinburgh’s city limits, all marked
up in black ink on maps they handed to her. After settled into her single, cozy attic room,
she went for a walk. She had missed a guided tour of the Royal Mile scheduled
that day because of 24 hours of flight delays.
Even though she was
exhausted, her mind and body were re-energized on the frenzied city streets filled
with tourists, international students from the University of Edinburgh, locals,
immigrants. Churches, cemeteries, museums, all built of stone and blackened by
ancient age spots encircled the city like a fortress. When she reached Prince
Street, a large avenue with constant commotion from moving trams, buses, taxis,
cars, bicycles, and foot traffic, she heard her first bagpipe played by a young
man dressed in full traditional Scottish regalia. Even though she had not done much research on
Scotland before the trip, she had learned that bagpipes were played by Scottish
men marching into battle. Sonorous, mournful
sounds now pulled on her heart as if tuning its muscle to a different emotional
frequency. Even though she hated crying, allowing only a couple of tears to
flow before quickly wiping them away, even when thinking of Emily, she now cried
unabashedly using the sleeves of her cashmere coat to wipe her eyes while other
tourists stopped to take pictures of the performer before walking away to other
sites.
“Esta bien,” a
young Spanish woman with soft brown eyes, who stood next to her, asked while
handing her a tissue.
“What do you know
about it?” Judy snapped, grabbed the tissue, and blew her nose. “You’re
probably just here on a weekend trip,” she snarled at the woman who did not understand
English. It was something her Emily would do, reach out to a stranger in need
even if it embarrassed her.
The young woman smiled
and shrugged her head innocently as her friends pulled her away to other sites.
After Judy got back
to her room that night, she ate the turkey sandwich bought at a grocery store
in town, unpacked her carry-on, put her clothes away, took a steaming hot shower,
and surveyed her small, charming attic room with an eclectic mix of designs:
carpet; wall papered, wood paneled, and painted walls; Italian titled bathroom
floors; 70s lounge chair; unfinished writing desk; and vintage, fairy stenciled
headboard.
In bed, her
thoughts returned to Emily. Guilt overwhelmed her. How could she ever smile or laugh
again? She now saw her hand in their estrangement: Memories of name calling,
screaming, and threatening overcame her. Unlike her late parents, who
emotionally abused her for no apparent reason, she felt justified in her
actions towards Emily because she hadn’t cleaned her room, finished her
homework, made curfew…. All those years, she hardly kissed or hugged her
affection-starved daughter because the world was cruel like her parents were cruel,
like she eventually became cruel, and like Emily must become cruel. Rage overwhelmed Judy: Her epiphany was too
late; its consequences dire--She was dead to her daughter even though her
daughter would never be dead to her. Maybe,
she thought, feverishly, hopefully, Emily’s distancing herself from her would
break dysfunctional family patterns forever.
For the first time,
she knew she would never see or speak to her daughter again. Undeniable, gut-wrenching truth sent her into
full body spasms and sobs. An emotional, physical, mental, soulful,
psychological writhing grief verging on suffocating madness she’d never
experienced before. For hours, she sobbed and screamed into her pillow for fear
of waking up other guests. When she got
up to breath, she walked to the window, opened it, and found a sky so dark blue
it seemed heavy from holding up the universe. She took a swig from the small
Scottish whiskey bottle bought at liquor store earlier that day and breathed in
the cool night air. Then she grabbed the pen and note pad on the desk to write the
first lines of the hardest letter she’d ever written.
Dear Emily,
I was emotionally abusive to you.
The next day, she
rode on a musty smelling van with other Americans on a guided tour of a fishing
village, palace, golf course, bridge, and cathedral outside Edinburgh’s city
limits. Because of jet lag, lack of rest,
and emotional and physical exhaustion, she drifted in and out of sleep while a handsome
Scottish guide wearing only a kilt and t-shirt on a cold Fall day because he
said he liked being cold at work and warm at home, spoke about Scotland’s
history, including the days when it was known as a stinky city for lack of
plumbing and smelly excrement thrown out people’s windows; killing of 5000 “witches”;
Romans in lowland Scotland; Jacobites; Burke and Hare murders; hairy Highlanders;
beautiful Queen Mary of Scots; bonny Prince Charles…. while pointing where historical
events took place on idyllic, green lands.
It was too much to
process. Judy had booked several tours with her travel package figuring it was
the best way to see Scotland in a short amount of time, but the first tour’s demanding
orders to take pictures, take in sites, take coffee breaks, take bathroom breaks
on command and within a short amount of time was exasperating, so she decided to
cancel her other tours when she got to her room later that day and focus only
on seeing Edinburgh.
Her interest was now
singularly piqued by the guide’s reference to the medieval cathedral of St.
Andrews and an ancient queen’s order for all Scots to make pilgrimage to the patron
saint of Scotland. In the village of Fife, where they had a two-hour stay, Judy
followed narrow streets to her destination. Because she was tired and dazed, she
paid close attention to speeding traffic driving on narrow roads in the opposite
direction from the States, while walking behind giddy students from University
of St. Andrews, happy locals, and tourists, many of them American men proud as
peacocks for fulfilling their bucket list wish of playing golf on the mythical green
lawns of St. Andrews edged by a just as mythical Atlantic Ocean.
St. Andrews
Cathedral, destroyed during the Scottish Reformation, was now a naked relic, monstrous
and vulnerable, of standing carved stone walls missing doors and windows, and
scattered everywhere. She took a seat on a solitary slab and looked at other tourists
walking the uneven maze of leftover walls, pillars, and decaying gravestones rising
to the sky from uneven patches of grass and brown earth. There was a museum on
site, but Judy didn’t have the energy to process more information. The cold
wind and salty air off the Atlantic revived her. She figured she would sit here
most of the two hours given to be in town and leave with enough time to get a
hot chocolate at a nearby coffeehouse.
After googling St.
Andrew, she learned he had been the first disciple of Jesus who continued to
preach his word even after Jesus’s death, for which St. Andrew was also
eventually crucified. His compassionate,
brave, chivalrous giving of self was an inspiration to all Scots who aimed for
the same lofty goals, even today. “Legend had it that the saint’s remains were
brought to Fife by the Greek monk, St. Regulus, who had a vision in which he
was told to take the remains to the end of the earth for safekeeping.”
Her mind wandered
to the location of missing walls, doors, windows, chapels of the cathedral in
its heyday: How long were pilgrim lines? What was the process of pleading to
the saint? Was their tithing for pleas? Was
music sung or played during services? What days and times were pilgrims allowed
to state their lost causes? What pleas did royalty, nobility, and peasants make?
Maybe a cure for disease, bravery to fight in war, victory in battle, peace
from English’s oppression, power, faith, salvation, love. Maybe the end of estrangement from a loved
one. She wouldn’t dare ask the saint for that miracle. Her cause was truly lost,
but she had no tears left to cry about it today. Anyway, she wasn’t’ religious.
Her Native mother had converted to Catholicism for her Irish American father
and practiced its rites and rituals, even daily reciting the Hail Mary, yet her
mother was mean and angry all the time, which Judy attributed to her father’s drinking,
cheating, and lying, and because she said her only daughter looked like her “no-good
husband.”
When Judy looked
at her phone, she noticed it was time to head back. As she stood up, her right
foot sunk into the soft, brown earth causing her to lose her balance. To stop her
fall, she grabbed a nearby pillar, first with one hand and then with the other.
When she found herself tightly embracing the tall relic, her heart silently gushed
its most desperate, unearthed questions:
“I don’t deserve my
daughter, St. Andrew. I know that now. But who is going to love me? Who am I
going to love? Who am I going to love now? Do you hear me? Are you here St. Andrew?” she pleaded
wholeheartedly before heaving a loud sigh. With her eyes closed and chest tight
up against the relic, she imagined the pillar a sound beacon pinging for
eternity the lost causes of past, present, and future pilgrims to the saint in
heaven. She was one of those pilgrims now.
You never deserved
how I treated you; it’s no excuse, but I didn’t know better.
The next day, Judy
wandered around a busy Edinburgh and found ancient castles, medieval churches, spooky
cemeteries, roaring little rivers, pretty bridges, botanical gardens, new
Edinburgh… The city rose like a wedding cake from its underground closes and
chambers, once used by criminals and gamblers to a skyline wrapped in emerald-green
hills. Since she was on a budget, she didn’t spend money on paid attractions
and walked around until she found the Royal Yacht Britannia, built during Queen
Victoria’s reign; the houses of Robert Burns and JM Barrie; Clarinda’s Tea
Room, once a pub where Robert Burns fell in love with his muse Clarinda Agnes
Maclehose, also buried in the church cemetery next door, to which he dedicated,
“Ae Fond Kiss”; a memorial to Lincoln and all the Scots who died fighting in
the Civil War…. The Scots honored and
remembered everything., she thought.
She was
overwhelmed by her first solo travel out of the States even though she wasn’t
sure why she was instinctually drawn to Scotland, except that since arriving her
feelings about Emily were constantly triggered.
Her last trip to Europe was ten years ago when she was married, and her
husband planned and paid for everything. Still, she wouldn’t allow fears to
deter her from seeing Edinburgh, so she treated herself to a whisky at the most
popular pub in town and a pizza at a restaurant frequented by locals.
At the mall, she
enjoyed a hot dark chocolate in coconut milk; at a second-hand store she purchased
dark blue Mary Jane heels, like new; and at the Farmer’s market she bought a
bottle of raw honey from a beekeeper who told her he watched his bees’ flight
patterns to learn their routes; studied the language of their dances, which he videotaped
in their hives, to know where they directed other bees to fly for pollen and nectar;
and he smelled and tasted what they brought back to distinguish flowers, fruits,
trees, vegetables, and crops, like the lime flowers, heather, and clove in the bottle
of honey Judy bought from him.
The Scottish were
lovely, authentic, and genuinely helpful when offering Judy directions and
insights about their city, but there was a contemplative solitariness to them, as
if they were processing the weight of the past, the pride of legacy, the wonder
of living in a city that always taught and showed them something new, as
several Scots confided in conversation. American tourists, on the other hand,
seemed fidgety with their tight, nervous expressions among the multi-layers of
Scottish history, culture, and people who knew that this too shall pass, more will
follow, and that too will pass. Americans lacked the comfort of such deep-rooted
knowing; political correctness, political divisiveness, corporate interest, consumerism,
compounded trauma of mass shootings, and obsession with singularly achieving
personal future goals masked the need to explore the country’s painful past, to
reconcile it with its current legacy, and to give its people a genuine, spiritual,
and liberating peace about it all.
Except for the
guidance Judy’s grandmother provided, she didn’t know much about her Hopi or
Irish ancestry; her parents worried too much about bills and fighting to share their
ancestry with her. Recently, she read in
the paper that young Native Americans were using social media to broadcast
Native issues, celebrate ancestry, showcase ritual dress, song, and dance. The country had already changed the name of
Columbus Day to Native American Day, and California had changed the name of a
few of its northern parks to original Native names and returned sacred lands to
its first people. Like her grandmother long ago predicted, Native American young
would one day rush to broadcast, day and night, the truth of America’s painful past
until the country remembered, made amends, healed, and started dreaming new
dreams. Her grandmother had predicted the internet.
After lunch, Judy ran
into the modernist Parliament Building; its distorted, disjointed design of
concrete, wood slabs, and dark little windows as if thrown together haphazardly,
shocked her. She recalled studying Picasso’s
Guernica in college and learning that the masterpiece was dedicated to lives
lost by the bombing of Guernica by Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy. Strangely, the Parliament Building was also
designed by a young Spaniard who died after its completion. The audacity and courage
of the Scots, she thought, to face the royals in their Holyrood Castle, where they
stayed when in town, directly across the street from Parliament, with a
statement about their long-pained relationship akin to, “all is forgiven, but not
forgotten, and always HONORED.” When she
asked the Scottish about the design of their Parliament, they said it was beautiful
inside. Did she see the inside? They asked as if an outsider wasn’t privy to too
much Scottish truth. She nodded her head
half-heartedly, thinking she saw what she needed to see.
I forgive you
for leaving me. I forgive myself for what I did to make you leave me.
On her last day in
Scotland, she sat on the first floor of the National Museum of Scotland too exhausted
to do a thorough tour of the massive three-story building, so she strolled
around the first floor taking in what the internet labeled “itinerant” collections,
including an Atomic Crusher, goddess statue found in an ancient Egyptian tomb,
fossil of the largest deer that ever lived, modernist fashion designs with
focus on eco awareness, ancient Scottish gravestones… When she stopped to read about
the inspirations for Walter Scott’s books, she read about his obsessions with learning
and collecting all things Scottish from stories and artifacts of Ballads and
Borders, Crimes and Passions, Knights and Crusades, Religion and Reformation… Suddenly,
she had another epiphany: the Scottish lived in constant awareness of their tragic,
violent, glorious, mythical past, its present incarnations, and future mutations,
with the inner strength to accept, transmute, and let it go, all the time.
On her last night
in Edinburgh, she took invigorating laps in the cold waters of the Olympic size
community pool several block away from the bed and breakfast. When she got back
to her room, she took steaming hot shower, ate a salad she purchased in town, and
wrote the last line of her letter.
I hope you’re healed,
healthy, and happy. I love you.
Then she walked to
the window, opened it, tore the letter into tiny pieces, and threw it into the cold,
dark Scottish sky. “Emily, I let you go,”
she whispered. The words throbbed in her chest. Maybe, she thought suddenly, anxiously,
she didn’t mean it; how could she let her daughter go? She should try to contact her. Send her
another letter. She must reach Emily. Then
she started to cry but remembered her grandmother’s long-lost words: You must let everything go. Everything, my
child,” a memory now returned as a blessing.
On her last night,
and for the first time in Scotland, she slept peacefully.
On the plane ride
back she nervously and excitedly wrote a list of things she wanted to do when
she got home:
1. Join
local ukulele band
2. Read
a good book
3. Eat
healthier
4. Travel
to Colorado to put flowers at grandmother, father, and mother’s graves.
5. Learn
more about Hopi and Irish roots
For the first
time in a long time, memories of Emily did not overwhelm her even though she
feared their return. The excited, young passenger sitting next to her broke her
train of thought. The woman with a blazing white smile, two long braided pink
ponytails, and tattoo of tall pine tree on the inside of her left arm introduced
herself as Bella and said she was flying to Maine to see her mother. Judy
shuddered at the reasons she gave for her travels.
Bella was
studying ecology at a university in northern California, and she wanted to save
America’s wildest lands; using drones to collect data was the focus of her studies,
she said with relish. She hadn’t seen
her mother in a year being away at college, and she looked forward to hiking
mountains they hadn’t hiked in some time.
“Does your mother
like your tattoo?” Judy asked.
“Not yet. She
doesn’t know I got one. It’s a redwood tree.
They surround my college campus. Out
there they call them jolly giants, and they say we live behind the redwood
curtain. My friend said she did mushrooms in the forest once and saw the
redwoods hugging each other. Yea, I’ll have
to convince my mom about my tattoo, but she’ll understand, eventually,” Bella
said, smiling and winking at Judy.
“Excuse me, I’ll
be right back,” Judy said as she rushed to the bathroom, tears welling up in
her eyes. Judy never understood Emily, never even tried. She sobbed
and swayed in the narrow stall, the same intense writhing, emotional, physical sobbing
she experienced on her first night in Scotland, and she feared she would continue
sobbing on arrival.
When the plane
started shaking and the fasten seatbelt sign came on, Judy was still in the
bathroom. In the past, her heart would have pounded, her hands clenched the
seat, but now she didn’t care about the disturbance, even when the plane’s
rocking pushed her up against the door.
“I can’t do this.
Take me out of my misery already. Take
us all out of our misery,” she said out loud, angrily,” but then she remembered
Bella’s excitement about seeing her mother and the Scottish who smiled anyway and
always. By then, the plane had stopped shaking,
the seat belt sign was turned off. Judy wiped her tears, blew her nose, washed
her face, and returned to her seat.
“Are you okay?”
Bella asked.
“Now I am,” Judy
said.
After the plane landed,
she wished the young woman a wonderful time with her mother, and she meant it. She realized that as difficult as it was to
cry over losing Emily it would happen, and it would pass.
As Judy rolled her carryon to the airport
exit, she felt lighter, her heart filled with an incoming knowing, like when
she was a child and knew the day the ice cream truck was coming, or when her
mother, who out of the blue ordered her to put on her bathing suit she already
had on because she knew they were going to the community pool to swim.
This time her
knowing was richer and fuller, and it filled her entire body and mind with sublime
anticipation. When it overwhelmed her
senses, she got the message:
“I will give my
love to everybody,” she said to herself. “Thank you, St. Andrew, thank you,”
she repeated as she pushed the revolving doors and exited the airport.
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